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The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.