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Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop, relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Marais Korean BBQ, chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.