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Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

France's oldest tea house since 1854, the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.