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Contemporary art in the stables of a 16th-century palazzo

Esquilino stronghold of Roman cucina, carbonara that ranks

Art-of-bread bakery and café on Via Merulana since 1929

Thirty-year sister-run enoteca and restaurant off Piazza Trilussa

Renaissance-piazza seafood institution since 1938

The natural-wine bar that changed Flaminio, by MAXXI

Textbook cucina romana cut into the amphora hill

Cacio e pepe as liturgy since 1911

Checked-cloth family trattoria of pure Roman recipes

All-day Prati canteen, wine bar and gastroteca