Authentic in Çeşme

Two hundred Turkish bottles in a pomegranate garden behind a 150-year-old house, wine boutique and kitchen under the same roof

An Italian gelataio who fell for the Aegean and now churns the peninsula's most honest gelato off a Hacimemis corner

Aegean meze read off both shores, served in a courtyard tucked between two 1850s Greek stone houses

The village's oldest rakı-fish table, run by the same family since 1950

Three generations of Aegean mastic worked off one Ugur Mumcu counter since 1945, sakizli dondurma, kurabiye and jams from the source

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on

A family-run raki-and-fish meyhane at the bazaar mouth where you bring your own bottle

An owner-poured bar where the cocktail list is rewritten, not reprinted

Organic Grenache rosé and Tempranillo grown six kilometres of stone-terraced slope above the village, tasted facing Chios

Oktay Durna's three-thousand-piece Anatolian glass collection, housed in a Hacımemiş stone room

Diyarbakır charcoal craft married to the Aegean, with daily homemade meze from the owner's wife