Locali in Lisbon

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone