Le Verre Volé

On rue de Lancry a few minutes from the canal, Le Verre Volé has been one of the natural-wine reference points in Paris since well before natural wine was a marketing category. The bottles line the walls, the bar is short, the kitchen behind the bottles sends out a daily-changing menu of seasonal small plates and bistro standards. The list runs to 400 references with depth in low-intervention France and Italy. It's an institution that hasn't started behaving like one, the energy is still tight, the pricing is still fair, and reservations are still imperative. The team also runs a wine-shop counter for takeaway.