Locali affini a Yard

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

The Ritz's wood-paneled cocktail room, bookless reservations and a serious dry martini

Mahogany expat bar from 1911, birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The 2007 Sentier speakeasy that built modern Paris cocktail culture, still no reservations

The Marais corner where natural wine, oysters and serious cocktails collapse into one room.