Mustafa's Gemüse Kebap

Mustafa's Gemüse Kebap is the takeaway counter on Mehringdamm in Kreuzberg that built its reputation around the vegetable-and-feta variant of the döner, roasted aubergine, courgette and potato folded into the bread with chicken, plus feta. The queue runs at most hours; the format is takeaway-only with a few standing tables on the pavement. For the İstanbul audience the meaningful frame is not 'how good is Berlin döner' but 'is the Berlin format actually different', and Mustafa's is the address that demonstrates what the Berlin variant has done with the form. The wait is twenty to forty minutes most days; the operators have not added a chair in twenty years.