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The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Twelve-seat temple to Portuguese low-intervention wine

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica