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Nice's antiques village: 36 dealers and art galleries by the port

The morning produce-and-flower market that feeds the old town

The real Niçois produce market under the old railway

1921 covered market hall: cheese, charcuterie, butchers, catch

Nicole Rubi's celebrated Provençal table by the Opéra

Brothers' laundromat-turned-natural-wine kitchen in the old town

Boutique hideaway built into the Castle Hill cliff with a rock-set pool

The pink-domed 1913 belle-époque palace, still independently owned

Restored belle-époque hotel with the SEEN rooftop over the bay

Nice's 1934 roaster's bar behind the Gare du Sud

Hyper-local cooking and a cult natural-wine cellar near the Negresco

Mediterranean dining on a rock-pillar former diving platform

Chef-owner José Orsini's 25-year bistronomic seafood room on Quai Lunel

A 25-key Belle Époque boutique hotel on the Cimiez hill

One-star creativity from chef Samuel Victori