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A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil, Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.