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Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

The 7e roastery that started Paris's specialty-coffee third wave in 2011.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

France's oldest tea house since 1854, the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.