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Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster, since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

France's oldest tea house since 1854, the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries