Στέκια in Paris

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903, Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

Philippe Starck's 1970s post-office turned Trocadéro design hotel with rooftop kitchen garden.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram, boutique and salon

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique, Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

Mahogany expat bar from 1911, birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The original Pigalle boutique, leather banquettes, art on every wall, brunch all weekend.

Boutique design hotel inside a former metals factory, concrete, courtyard, cocktail bar at the centre.

Laurent Taïeb's reborn 1888 central post office with rooftop ROOF and Eiffel-facing terraces.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name, 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Châtelet jazz club since 1984, 300+ concerts a year, free Friday-Saturday midnight jam.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

France's oldest tea house since 1854, the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Jean-Louis Deniot-designed Evok hotel facing Comédie-Française, with Brasserie Réjane and a marble pool.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2000 chocolatier, the Madeleine flagship with the life-size chocolate sculptures

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Marais Korean BBQ, chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes