Locali in Lisbon

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Lisbon's oldest restaurant, Pessoa's café since 1782

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

1943 pastelaria, repeat 'best pastel de nata' winner

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Michelin-starred chef's table where Portugal meets Asia

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Slow-fermented artisan bakery from Vitor Sobral & Mário Rolando

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto