Lokale in Milan

Eritrean dining staged like a desert tent on Via Melzo

The 1947 cocktail temple where the Negroni Sbagliato was born

Acquabella's natural-wine neighbourhood bar with Mediterranean plates

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Sommelier Jacopo Ercolani's natural-wine bar in the heart of Isola

Three generations of fierce Calabrian cooking off Porta Romana

Andrea Berton's cocktail-and-pizza idea, done seriously in Brera

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

Giorgio Caruso's soft, slow-risen Neapolitan-style pizza

Vintage-apothecary cocktail room on the Naviglio Grande

Diego Rossi's wine-led osteria of cicchetti and ~200 natural labels

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

Milan's great art gallery in the Palazzo di Brera

Eritrean and Ethiopian cooking with a traditional coffee ceremony

The bar that brought fresh-ingredient cocktails to Milan in 2002

Salon-style cocktail and natural-wine bistrot on the Navigli

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina

Brera's artists' bar since 1911

Lebanese meze in a warm Brera-edge room

Since 1984, the founding Eritrean table of Milan's 'Little Asmara'

Nearly 30 years of true Eritrean cooking on Via Melzo