Le Servan

Tatiana and Katia Levha, sisters who passed through L'Arpège and L'Astrance, opened Le Servan in 2014 and quickly became one of the bistros that defined what the 11e meant for the next decade. Tatiana cooks French technique through a Filipino prism: calamansi cutting through brown butter, lemongrass folded into terrines, sambal beside the cheese course. Katia runs the floor and the wine list. The room is light, the ceiling is hand-painted, the bar is central, and the booking page disappears two weeks out. Lunch is the easier seat. The kitchen reads its own influences without ever sliding into novelty.