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Esquilino stronghold of Roman cucina, carbonara that ranks

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Antonio Ziantoni's measured, classically-grounded one-star tucked behind Trastevere

Deli, wine cellar and serious kitchen in one room near Campo de' Fiori

Owner-chefs' minimalist lab a step from the Pantheon

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The quinto-quarto cathedral carved into Monte Testaccio

Textbook cucina romana cut into the amphora hill