Au am Isar

The Au lies tight against the Isar's east bank, between Mariahilfplatz and the Wirtshaus belt that runs along Lilienstraße, one of Munich's oldest boroughs, where the spring Auer Dult flea market still rings the church and the Auer Mühlbach cuts through backyard gardens. Mariahilfplatz holds the centre: the brick neogothic Mariahilfkirche, the Ayinger in der Au beer hall pouring direct from cooled wooden barrels, and the small Marias Platzl hotel that opened in 2018. North along Eduard-Schmid-Straße, Café Hüller has been a riverside Frühstück since the eighties; south on Rablstraße, the Atelier Gourmet has held a quiet Michelin candle since 2005. Quieter than Haidhausen proper, more Bavarian than the Glockenbachviertel.