Plekken in Florence

16-room design retreat over Europe's largest private garden

Boisterous 1913 San Marco trattoria that wins locals first

Michelin-starred dining in Palazzo Portinari Salviati

Florence's oldest historic cafe, founded 1733

Tiny organic salotto for plant-leaning breakfast and lunch near Pitti

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

Red-velvet, Pergola-theatre seats, the see-and-be-seen Sant'Ambrogio bistrot

The flagship of the Picchi culinary universe at Sant'Ambrogio

The affordable face of Fabio Picchi's Sant'Ambrogio cult kitchen

Wine-bar bistro of handmade pasta a step from the Duomo

Specialty roastery and coffee laboratory in San Frediano

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

Florence's legendary flourless chocolate cake, since the 1980s

Mid-century-art design hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Tiny Oltrarno gelateria of organic, seasonal, natural-colour gelato

Art Nouveau bolthole with a handwritten daily menu on Piazza Ghiberti

Twenty-year Neapolitan wood-fired pizzeria near Sant'Ambrogio

Frescoed 15th-century villa retreat in the Fiesole hills

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002

Twenty-room townhouse hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Neighbourhood wine shop and aperitivo room in Le Cure

All-day concept space: restaurant, cocktail bar, florist and design store

Panoramic Fiesole terrace with the classic view over the duomo

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Revered since-1992 wine bar of small independent growers near Ponte Vecchio

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

World's-50-Best cocktails inside a 13th-century palazzo

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

The antiquarian's jewel-box museum, blue walls and the Devil's bronze

Greenhouse dining room reinventing Tuscan cooking in Sant'Ambrogio

The world's oldest pharmacy-perfumery, in continuous craft since 1221

Marco Stabile's creative Italian table behind the Uffizi

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

1928 pasticceria-cafe with Piemontese roots near Annunziata

Ferragamo-family riverside hotel with Michele Bonan's 1950s-cinema rooms

Belle-Epoque truffle-panini and Antinori wine bar since 1885

The schiacciata benchmark of Florence, on Piazza San Marco since 1925

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Vintage San Frediano bakery-grocer with an on-site oven

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Working leather school and atelier inside the Santa Croce friary

Cult gourmet-panini counter by the Sant'Ambrogio market

Eclectic 13-room Oltrarno B&B of salvaged antiques and frescoes

Family-run since 1945, the Oltrarno trattoria Florentines and insiders book

Long-standing Oltrarno trattoria off Piazza del Carmine

1956 family trattoria, the homecooked heart of Santo Spirito

Family canteen behind the Mercato Centrale since 1953

Lunch-only 1915 trattoria by San Lorenzo, run by the fourth generation

Renaissance monastery hotel and the Antesi loggia restaurant above Florence

Florence's gelato dynasty, the same family since 1929

Mother-and-son counter for handmade Tuscan dishes in San Niccolo

Campo di Marte trattoria on a quiet gourmet path since 1952

Boutique enoteca facing Palazzo Pitti, 3,000 labels deep

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden

Contemporary Sant'Ambrogio trattoria facing the market

Lunch counter inside the Sant'Ambrogio market where Florentines eat