Le Pantruche

Since 2011, Franck Baranger has run Le Pantruche on rue Victor Massé as the gold-standard SoPi bistro: zinc bar, leather banquettes, beveled mirrors, a kitchen that reads markets sharply and sends out the famous Grand Marnier soufflé night after night. The Michelin Bib Gourmand has stuck for over a decade, and Le Fooding still shortlists it as a model of what bistronomy can be when discipline outlasts trend. Tables are small, the room is full, and reservations are a sport, but for an Istanbul visitor who wants to understand why the 9e became Paris's bistro laboratory, this is the round-one room.