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1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark, Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.