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Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark, Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star, 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles, chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes, 45 years of haute French classicism.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room