Les Marches

Les Marches is one of three remaining 'routiers' in central Paris, the working-class red-and-blue-logoed brasserie type that fed truck-drivers and labourers and almost vanished, tucked on rue de la Manutention behind the Palais de Tokyo. The Dumant brothers (Auberge Bressane, Aux Crus de Bourgogne) run it: timeless tile, checkered tablecloths, leeks vinaigrette, dandelion-and-bacon salad, coq au vin, pike quenelles, tarte Tatin, an 18-euro entrée+plat lunch. Le Fooding lists it; Gilles Pudlowski writes about it as the 'routier' the 16e didn't deserve. For an Istanbul visitor who wants real working-Paris cooking near the Modern Art Museum at modern-art-museum prices, this is it.