Locali in London

Chet Sharma's one-Michelin-star Mayfair Indian, the JKS room that reframed regional Indian cooking in 2021.

Tomos Parry's Basque-grill flagship, whole turbot over wood, the room that reset East London cooking

A 15-cover Michelin-starred tasting room inside Blue Mountain School, cooking is the only headline

JKS Restaurants' two-Michelin-star Indian on Albemarle Street, Trishna's older Mayfair sister and the standard against which the rest measure themselves.

Tomos Parry's Michelin-starred Beak Street wood-fired room, the Basque grill that Brat became Soho-confident in

Rainer Becker's original 2004 robatayaki, the Charlotte Street counter Roka grew from, with Shochu Lounge in the basement

Agostino Perrone's silver-trolley martini and a room that has spent a decade at or near the top of the World's 50 Best Bars list.

London's longest-standing Michelin-starred pub, Fulham backstreets, game and wild food

The Berkeley's pastry counter, Grolet's first London room, the trompe-l'œil fruits the audience has only seen on Instagram

Henrietta Street's modern British room from the Kitty Fisher's team, clubby, candle-lit, opera-night reliable.

Beirut's Mireille Hayek inside Harrods, the polished Lebanese set-menu room that translates Em Sherif Beirut's standard for SW1.

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

St Martin's Court's 1890s seafood institution, Theatreland's pre-curtain Dover sole

London's oldest restaurant, Maiden Lane since 1798, four families across ten reigns, and the game-and-claret Britain that has not changed.

Mount Street seafood and the city's most consequential lunch crowd, the Mayfair set-piece.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

Since 1742, Jermyn Street oysters, game in season, and a clubland Britain that has stopped existing almost everywhere else.