Positano

Positano spills down its cliff in a cascade of pastel houses, and its dining splits cleanly between two worlds. Up in the village, terraces like La Sponda dress for candlelit evenings while Da Vincenzo and Il Ritrovo keep the old mountain kitchens honest with rabbit, handmade pasta and vegetables from the hills above. Down at the water, the ritual is purer still: a boat ride to Da Adolfo for grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves and a carafe of chilled white, feet barely dry from the sea. It is a town that turns the simplest lunch into an occasion and never quite lets you forget the view.