Locali in Lisbon

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Long-running hidden cocktail bar in a Belle Epoque room

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

London-born regional Indian, Bib Gourmand in Chiado

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Counter-driven Japanese tavern in Principe Real

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

Alexandre Silva's Michelin-starred tasting-menu temple by the Basílica

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Bell-and-frog speakeasy on the World's 50 Best Bars list

Wood-fired Mediterranean, vinyl and natural wine in quiet Lapa

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

Brazilian-founded restaurant, bar and gallery for sharing plates

Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Lisbon's credible Anatolian room, an all-women kitchen

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto