Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002
The bohemian heart of the Oltrarno, where the piazza and basilica anchor an evening the locals still own.
The bohemian core of the Oltrarno gathers around Brunelleschi's austere basilica and the piazza that fills with locals at dusk. This is aperitivo and natural-wine territory, with Zeb's tasting counter up the hill in San Niccolò and the inventive cooking at Essenziale near Cestello within easy reach. Unlike the centre, the evening here still belongs to the people who live in it.
3 places
Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002
Storied Piazza della Passera trattoria with its famous pear fiocchetti
6 places
Boutique enoteca facing Palazzo Pitti, 3,000 labels deep
1 place