Wine Bar in Paris

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

The Marais corner where natural wine, oysters and serious cocktails collapse into one room.