Neni am Naschmarkt

Haya Molcho opened the first Neni at the Naschmarkt's eastern end in 2009, the family now runs Neni outposts from Paris to Berlin to Zurich, but the original Vienna stand remains the one to book. The format is shareable plates with a strong Israeli-Mediterranean register: babaganoush with pomegranate, sabich, shawarma over freekeh, Yemenite slow-braised lamb, the Sahlab milk pudding at the end. The terrace catches the morning sun and runs all day; the small back room takes evening bookings. The Molcho family's argument is that the same flavours that mean home to a Tel Aviv table read clearly to a Vienna one without any translation, and the booking volume across fifteen years has settled the point.