The Costa Smeralda Without the Yacht-Set
Strip away the tenders and the Champagne lists and a serious cooking coast remains. The kitchens worth crossing the island for sit a few minutes inland from the mooring fields.
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Guides approfondis, regards locaux et stories éditoriales sur la cuisine, la culture et les quartiers de Sardinia.
Strip away the tenders and the Champagne lists and a serious cooking coast remains. The kitchens worth crossing the island for sit a few minutes inland from the mooring fields.
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Twenty minutes behind the coast, the granite turns to cork oak and the menu turns to suckling pig. This is the Sardinia that was here long before the marinas — and will be here long after.
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An island off an island, settled by Genoese coral-fishers from Tunisia, that built an entire cuisine on the bluefin tuna run. Carloforte does not taste like the rest of Sardinia, and that is exactly the point.
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On the northwest coast they still speak a medieval Catalan, and the signature dish is a lobster dressed the Barcelona way. Alghero is Sardinia with a Spanish accent — and one of the island's most distinctive tables.
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While the Costa Smeralda shutters for the winter, the southern capital keeps cooking. Cagliari is where Sardinia eats when the tourists go home — and it is the best argument for coming off-season.
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Sardinia's nightlife is not a club — it is a wine list and a table you don't leave. From Gallura's Vermentino to the Malvasia of Bosa, the island's evenings are built on the glass.
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