The Costa Smeralda Without the Yacht-Set
Strip away the tenders and the Champagne lists and a serious cooking coast remains. The kitchens worth crossing the island for sit a few minutes inland from the mooring fields.
Read storyEditorial
In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Sardinia's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
Strip away the tenders and the Champagne lists and a serious cooking coast remains. The kitchens worth crossing the island for sit a few minutes inland from the mooring fields.
Read story
Twenty minutes behind the coast, the granite turns to cork oak and the menu turns to suckling pig. This is the Sardinia that was here long before the marinas — and will be here long after.
Read story
An island off an island, settled by Genoese coral-fishers from Tunisia, that built an entire cuisine on the bluefin tuna run. Carloforte does not taste like the rest of Sardinia, and that is exactly the point.
Read story
On the northwest coast they still speak a medieval Catalan, and the signature dish is a lobster dressed the Barcelona way. Alghero is Sardinia with a Spanish accent — and one of the island's most distinctive tables.
Read story
While the Costa Smeralda shutters for the winter, the southern capital keeps cooking. Cagliari is where Sardinia eats when the tourists go home — and it is the best argument for coming off-season.
Read story
Sardinia's nightlife is not a club — it is a wine list and a table you don't leave. From Gallura's Vermentino to the Malvasia of Bosa, the island's evenings are built on the glass.
Read story