Trattoria di Via Serra
Bib Gourmand sfoglia in working-class Bolognina
Italy's deepest pasta city, where the rolling pin still rules and ragù is a birthright.
They call it Bologna la Grassa — the fat one — and the nickname is earned at the table, not the gym. This is the city of the sfoglia, the hand-rolled egg pastry that the sfoglina coaxes paper-thin with a long wooden pin before it becomes tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, lasagne layered green with spinach. The old trattorie under the porticoes treat tradition as a working recipe rather than a museum piece, and the salumerie of the Quadrilatero still slice mortadella thick enough to fold. Up in working-class Bolognina, away from the postcard towers, the cooking gets even more honest — long lunches, jug wine, a tortellino counted out by hand.
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Bib Gourmand sfoglia in working-class Bolognina
Family osteria since 1937, daily handmade sfoglia
Daniele Minarelli's temple of forgotten Bolognese cooking
Anna Maria's legendary pasta, celebrity photos, packed tables
Since 1956: Gigina's tagliatelle and a 300-label cellar
Neighbourhood sfoglia near the stadium, garden seating
Since 1918, under the arch to San Luca's portico
Bolognese cooking in a former apothecary, no menu
Sfogline at work since 1963, pasta to eat or take home
Bologna's lone star under Liberty-era frescoes
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Bologna's 1465 wine room where you bring your own food
The Bologna shop that pioneered wine by the glass
Bologna's tiki temple under the via de' Musei porticoes
Spritz and cocktails under 16th-century chapel frescoes