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Bologna (Bolognina)
earthy, generous, pasta-devoted, unpretentious

Bologna (Bolognina)

Italy's deepest pasta city, where the rolling pin still rules and ragù is a birthright.

They call it Bologna la Grassa — the fat one — and the nickname is earned at the table, not the gym. This is the city of the sfoglia, the hand-rolled egg pastry that the sfoglina coaxes paper-thin with a long wooden pin before it becomes tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, lasagne layered green with spinach. The old trattorie under the porticoes treat tradition as a working recipe rather than a museum piece, and the salumerie of the Quadrilatero still slice mortadella thick enough to fold. Up in working-class Bolognina, away from the postcard towers, the cooking gets even more honest — long lunches, jug wine, a tortellino counted out by hand.

Highlights

Tortellini in brodo and tagliatelle al ragù made from hand-rolled sfoglia Salumerie of the Quadrilatero piling mortadella, prosciutto and culatello Trattorie under the medieval porticoes serving lunch the old way Osteria del Sole, a wine-only tavern open since 1465 where you bring your own food Bolognina's unvarnished neighbourhood kitchens away from the tourist trail
16 places
3 Categories

Restaurant

10 places

Trattoria di Via Serra Restaurant
Restaurant
Traditional Authentic Family Run

Bib Gourmand sfoglia in working-class Bolognina

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Trattoria da Me Restaurant
Restaurant
Traditional Authentic Family Run

Family osteria since 1937, daily handmade sfoglia

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All'Osteria Bottega Restaurant
All'Osteria Bottega - Restaurant in Bologna (Saragozza), Emilia-Romagna
Restaurant
Traditional Authentic Family Run

Daniele Minarelli's temple of forgotten Bolognese cooking

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Trattoria Anna Maria Restaurant
Restaurant
Traditional Authentic Convivial

Anna Maria's legendary pasta, celebrity photos, packed tables

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Trattoria Bertozzi Restaurant
Trattoria Bertozzi - Restaurant in Bologna (Saragozza), Emilia-Romagna
Restaurant
Traditional Authentic Family Run

Neighbourhood sfoglia near the stadium, garden seating

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Trattoria Meloncello Restaurant
Restaurant
Traditional Historic Authentic

Since 1918, under the arch to San Luca's portico

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Drogheria della Rosa Restaurant
Drogheria della Rosa - Restaurant in Bologna (Santo Stefano), Emilia-Romagna
Restaurant
Traditional Historic Convivial

Bolognese cooking in a former apothecary, no menu

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Sfoglia Rina Restaurant
Sfoglia Rina - Restaurant in Bologna (Santo Stefano), Emilia-Romagna
Restaurant
Authentic Casual Local

Sfogline at work since 1963, pasta to eat or take home

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I Portici Restaurant
I Portici - Restaurant in Bologna, Emilia-Romagna
Restaurant
Refined Elegant Chef Driven
$$$$

Bologna's lone star under Liberty-era frescoes

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Shop

2 places

Tamburini Shop
Tamburini - Shop in Bologna (Quadrilatero), Emilia-Romagna
Shop
Historic Traditional Institution

The Quadrilatero's salumeria institution since 1932

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Salumeria Simoni Shop
Shop
Historic Traditional Authentic

Quadrilatero deli since 1960, mortadella taglieri

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Bar

4 places

Osteria del Sole Bar
Osteria del Sole - Bar in Bologna, Emilia-Romagna
Bar
Historic Institution Convivial

Bologna's 1465 wine room where you bring your own food

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Enoteca Italiana Bar
Bar
Institution Natural Wine Authentic

The Bologna shop that pioneered wine by the glass

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Nu Lounge Bar Bar
Bar
Craft Cocktails Design Led Lively

Bologna's tiki temple under the via de' Musei porticoes

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Le Stanze Bar
Le Stanze - Bar in Bologna, Emilia-Romagna
Bar
Historic Design Led Lively
$$$

Spritz and cocktails under 16th-century chapel frescoes

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