Bologna (Bolognina)
Italy's deepest pasta city, where the rolling pin still rules and ragù is a birthright.
They call it Bologna la Grassa — the fat one — and the nickname is earned at the table, not the gym. This is the city of the sfoglia, the hand-rolled egg pastry that the sfoglina coaxes paper-thin with a long wooden pin before it becomes tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, lasagne layered green with spinach. The old trattorie under the porticoes treat tradition as a working recipe rather than a museum piece, and the salumerie of the Quadrilatero still slice mortadella thick enough to fold. Up in working-class Bolognina, away from the postcard towers, the cooking gets even more honest — long lunches, jug wine, a tortellino counted out by hand.
Highlights
Restaurant
10 places
Since 1956: Gigina's tagliatelle and a 300-label cellar
Shop
2 places
Bar
4 places