Editorial
In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Amalfi Coast's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
The famous little square is a stage set for day-trippers. The island people who run Capri eat somewhere else — up the hill in Anacapri, in caves above the sea, under lemon trees the boats never reach.
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On this coast the best seafood lunches are the ones with no road. You take a gozzo, you swim before you eat, and the bill is the price of admission to a way of life that hasn't changed in fifty years.
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For thirty kilometres of cliff, the Amalfi Coast carries an absurd density of serious kitchens. They aren't variations on one idea — each answers a different question about what Campanian luxury should taste like.
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Hotels change hands, stars come and go, but a few kitchens on this coast are run by the same families that ran them before the tourists arrived — and they are still, quietly, where you eat best.
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The Amalfi Coast doesn't really do nightclubs. Its nightlife is a more civilised thing — the golden hour, a cold drink built around the local lemon, and a terrace pointed at the best sunset in Italy.
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Half the kitchens on this coast lock their doors from November to Easter. Understanding the April-to-October clock — when the boats run, when the lemon comes in, when the tables close — is the difference between a good trip and a locked gate.
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