Capri Beyond the Piazzetta
The famous little square is a stage set for day-trippers. The island people who run Capri eat somewhere else — up the hill in Anacapri, in caves above the sea, under lemon trees the boats never reach.
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In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Amalfi Coast's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
The famous little square is a stage set for day-trippers. The island people who run Capri eat somewhere else — up the hill in Anacapri, in caves above the sea, under lemon trees the boats never reach.
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On this coast the best seafood lunches are the ones with no road. You take a gozzo, you swim before you eat, and the bill is the price of admission to a way of life that hasn't changed in fifty years.
Read storyFor thirty kilometres of cliff, the Amalfi Coast carries an absurd density of serious kitchens. They aren't variations on one idea — each answers a different question about what Campanian luxury should taste like.
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Hotels change hands, stars come and go, but a few kitchens on this coast are run by the same families that ran them before the tourists arrived — and they are still, quietly, where you eat best.
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The Amalfi Coast doesn't really do nightclubs. Its nightlife is a more civilised thing — the golden hour, a cold drink built around the local lemon, and a terrace pointed at the best sunset in Italy.
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Half the kitchens on this coast lock their doors from November to Easter. Understanding the April-to-October clock — when the boats run, when the lemon comes in, when the tables close — is the difference between a good trip and a locked gate.
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