Capri

Capri wears its glamour lightly until you sit down to eat, and then the island's two registers reveal themselves. Around the Piazzetta and in the hotels, kitchens like Mammà and Le Monzù refine local produce into something quietly ambitious, while the trattoria tradition holds firm at Da Paolino under its famous lemon-tree canopy and at Da Tonino in the hills. The island's defining dishes are deceptively humble: ravioli capresi filled with caciotta and marjoram, the insalata caprese that took the place's name, fish pulled from the water that morning. At Da Luigi ai Faraglioni you eat with the great rock arches rising straight from the sea, the kind of setting that needs no embellishment.