Renaissance, cobbled, touristed, choose carefully

Vieux Lyon

The cobbled Renaissance quarter below Fourvière, where serious tables hide among the postcard streets and secret traboules.

Vieux Lyon is the Renaissance core at the foot of Fourvière — cobbled streets, pastel façades, and the secret traboules that thread between buildings down to the Saône. It is the city's most touristed quarter, and much of its dining trades on the postcard, but the addresses worth keeping are serious ones. Anthony Bonnet's Les Loges occupies a glassed Renaissance courtyard inside the Cour des Loges hotel, and Au 14 Février brings a Michelin-starred French-Japanese sensibility to a narrow old-town room. Alongside them, Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean upholds the bouchon tradition with Joseph Viola's hands on the pâté en croûte. Come for the stones, but choose your table with care.

Highlights

Les Loges sits in a glassed Renaissance courtyard Au 14 Février offers Michelin-starred French-Japanese cooking Daniel et Denise upholds the bouchon and its pâté en croûte Secret traboules thread down to the Saône At the foot of the Fourvière basilica

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