Two-Michelin-star chef Dominique Le Stanc's bare-essentials Niçoise counter
A car-free tangle of ochre lanes where the market, the aperitif and Niçois home cooking all happen within a few steps.
The oldest quarter folds in on itself in a maze of ochre lanes too narrow for cars, where laundry still hangs between shuttered windows above shops selling olive oil, candied fruit and socca by the slice. Mornings belong to the Cours Saleya flower-and-produce market; by evening the same square turns into terraces where locals drink pastis before dinner. Eating here means trottoir tables, hand-written menus and Niçois cooking, pissaladière, daube, stockfish, rather than anything that needs translating. It is touristy in stretches but the side streets stay genuinely lived-in, and the late hours belong to the bars around Place Rossetti.
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Two-Michelin-star chef Dominique Le Stanc's bare-essentials Niçoise counter
Michelin Bib Gourmand bistrot on the prettiest lane in the old town
Retro bistro de marché between Porte Fausse and the Palais de Justice
Cheese, natural wine and fondue in a 16th-century vaulted cave
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1885 Italian-style opera house at the gateway to the old town
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Boutique hideaway built into the Castle Hill cliff with a rock-set pool