Places in Paris

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion, Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.