Places in Paris

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.