BAO Soho
Soho
Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter, Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner
Sam and Eddie Hart's original walk-in tapas counter, relocated, the Spanish bar London learned the format from
Sam and Eddie Hart opened the first Barrafina on Frith Street in 2007 and rewrote London's idea of a tapas bar, counter-only, no reservations, regional Spanish cooking with a serious sherry list. Dean Street is the original team's flagship today (the Frith Street site is now Quo Vadis-adjacent), a single zinc bar facing an open kitchen and a covered, heated terrace at the front. Walk-up only, which means you queue, but the queue is part of how the room works: ahead of you is half a dozen plates' worth of Galician octopus, milk-fed lamb sweetbreads, salt-baked beetroot. The most genuine Spanish counter London has produced.
Arrive at 12:00 sharp for lunch, the doors open at noon and the first wave seats inside fifteen minutes. The terrace counter is the underrated seat and walks up faster. Order the tortilla, the milk-fed lamb sweetbreads, and a pre-meal Manzanilla; ask the bar for sherry pairings.
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Street Scene, London Skyline
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