Lokale in Athens

Pangrati taverna since 1926, barrel retsina, paper-tablecloth classics, the institution.

Upper-Plaka taverna since 1927, courtyard, charcoal grill, the working-Athenian institution above the tourist belt.

Pangrati mezedopoleio, the city's most-booked Bib Gourmand small-plates room.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.