Aleria
Metaxourgio courtyard restaurant, Gikas Xenakis' one-Michelin contemporary tasting menu.
Late-night quarter, Ta Karamanlidika, Soul Kitchen, the modern-Greek bench
Psyrri sits between Monastiraki and Omonia, historically a rough-edged district of small workshops, kafenia and rebetiko bars, now the city's late-night dining quarter where the modern-Greek kitchens lean. The streets fill after 22:00; the traveller uses Psyrri for the second-act dinner that follows a Plaka aperitif, and for the bar-and-mezze run that any Athenian weekend evening eventually becomes. Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani, the chapter's Smyrna-refugee anchor, sits at the Psyrri-Monastiraki edge on Sokratous, and is the single most useful reservation in the hood.
6 places
Metaxourgio courtyard restaurant, Gikas Xenakis' one-Michelin contemporary tasting menu.
Psyrri taverna, regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.
Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.
Upper-Plaka taverna since 1927, courtyard, charcoal grill, the working-Athenian institution above the tourist belt.
Working-class cellar since 1887, Athens Central Market lunch room, no signs, two doors, the city's most stubbornly itself room.
Working-class pork-chop room since 1955, Evripidou Street, one dish, the institution.
1 place