Places in Psyrri

Metaxourgio courtyard restaurant, Gikas Xenakis' one-Michelin contemporary tasting menu.

Working-class cellar since 1887, Athens Central Market lunch room, no signs, two doors, the city's most stubbornly itself room.

Upper-Plaka taverna since 1927, courtyard, charcoal grill, the working-Athenian institution above the tourist belt.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Working-class pork-chop room since 1955, Evripidou Street, one dish, the institution.