Neukölln

Neukölln carries the traveller-recognisable Berlin: the Sonnenallee Turkish-Arabic-Lebanese corridor (the unofficial 'Arab Street', running south from Hermannplatz with the bakeries, kebab houses and tea mekâns that any İstanbullu reads as home), the Reuterkiez modern wave around Maybachufer canal (the Tuesday-and-Friday Turkish market is the foundational ritual), and Coda dessert-tasting room (one Michelin star on Friedelstraße, the only dessert-only tasting menu in the guide). The chapter takes the diaspora kitchens that meet the bar, the canal-side modern-bistro evening, and the late-night register.