Mitte
Berlin's central core, Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate axis, Rutz / Ernst / Adlon dining.
Mitte is Berlin's historic core, the Spree's S-bend, the Museum Island UNESCO complex, the Brandenburg Gate axis, Hackescher Markt and the courtyard-and-passage grid that runs north to Rosenthaler Platz. The chapter accepts the rooms that earn the central postcode: Rutz (Marco Müller's three-Michelin-star room on Chausseestraße), Ernst (two stars on Gerichtstraße, the eighteen-seat counter), Bandol sur Mer, Cookies Cream and the Adlon-side hotel dining on Pariser Platz. Mitte is where the traveller books the proper booking, the one with the three-week horizon, and walks home through the courtyards.
Highlights
Restaurant
11 places
One Michelin star, twenty seats, four-course menu, Andreas Saul on Torstraße.
One Michelin star, Berlin's most architecturally hidden vegetarian fine-dining room.
Mitte's slow-food courtyard restaurant, the Candy Bomber pork at 12 hours.
Mitte's Japanese-cafe brunch on Johannisstraße, the Berlin original of the Brooklyn import.
Mitte's Syrian-fine-dining room on Torstraße, meze, lamb, the post-2015 Syrian-Berlin wave.
Gendarmenmarkt's 1811 Sekt-and-Wiener-Schnitzel institution, Charlottenstraße.
Berlin's oldest continuously running pub, Waisenstraße 14-16, 1621.
Bar
2 places
Berlin's cult speakeasy, Brunnenstraße, fourteen seats, by-reservation only.
Charlottenstraße's grand cocktail bar, Helmut Newton photography on the back wall.
Cafe
2 places