Intimate in Bodrum

Rita and Koko Fesçi's handmade-pasta room on Adliye Caddesi, the Bitez village pasta address since 2012.

Scandinavian-named specialty coffee shop on Bitez's Kanuni Sultan Süleyman line, the bay's third-wave corner.

Torba village's family-run Aegean and Turkish kitchen, twenty-plus years on Atatürk Caddesi, manti and çiğ börek

The Adliye Sokak bookshop café where the floor-to-ceiling shelves lean on art, philosophy and sociology

The Barlar Sokağı rock bar that has held the same stage and the same rotating live band line-up since 2006

A sourdough pizzeria with hand-crafted gin-tonic on homemade tonic, the village's alternative dinner

Akyarlar harbour boutique-hotel kitchen on Liman Caddesi, Cretan-paste mussel rice and grilled fish at the village register, with rooms upstairs.

The Alparslan family's clean-and-quiet pansiyon on Yalıçiftlik Caddesi, three generations on the strand, café meals on the deck, no destination noise.

Tülay Toker's small French patisserie behind Gümüşlük, viennoiserie taken seriously

A restored stone-house art village on the Yakaköy ridge, galleries, ateliers, an Ottoman ethnographic room and a film bar

A small Türkbükü artisan bakery doing serious sourdough on a side street the second-homers have learned to find

The 1983 stone-house jazz bar where Yeni Türkü and Erkan Oğur played before anyone had heard of them

Bülent and Nazmiye's mandarin-grove kahvaltı house above Gündoğan, the unexpanded village breakfast, on principle

A restored nineteenth-century olive-oil mill in Ortakent, run as a wine and coffee house with a working press