Waterfront in Bodrum

The 1987 family pansiyon on the Yalıçiftlik strand, with a sea-front dining room the chapter reads as Çiftlik's straight-line meze house.

Built on Yalı Mevkii, a classic Gündoğan beach cafe known for its olive-oil dishes and homemade mezes.

The Eskiçeşme köfte counter the marina taxi drivers still queue for, three decades into the same recipe

Akyarlar seafront fish room on Yalı Caddesi, a six-meze rakı-balık table at a price ceiling well below the bay's named rooms.

Bodrum's reference for Belgian-style pot mussels, opposite the Gündoğan harbour.

Akyarlar harbour boutique-hotel kitchen on Liman Caddesi, Cretan-paste mussel rice and grilled fish at the village register, with rooms upstairs.

The Alparslan family's clean-and-quiet pansiyon on Yalıçiftlik Caddesi, three generations on the strand, café meals on the deck, no destination noise.

The Aktur Tatil Sitesi residents' beach, daytime canteen, evening live music, the Bitez compound's working room.

Yahşi-side display-on-ice fish counter, value, freshness, the working version of the Ortakent harbour template.

1968 harbour fish house, the Gümüşlük institution that pre-dates the cove's curated era.

Smaller Gündoğan harbour fish house, the value entry against the cove's anchor names.

Gündoğan's salt-and-sand original since 2000, windsurf school by day, neighbourhood bar with live jazz at night

The morning corner of Gümüşlük, where coffee arrives before the boats unload

Bodrum's pre-Cumhuriyet-rush institution, on the Neyzen Tevfik harbour since 1979