Refined in Çeşme

Two hundred Turkish bottles in a pomegranate garden behind a 150-year-old house, wine boutique and kitchen under the same roof

Aegean meze read off both shores, served in a courtyard tucked between two 1850s Greek stone houses

An owner-poured bar where the cocktail list is rewritten, not reprinted

Enes Kara's stone courtyard reading of Aegean cooking, equal parts rooted and rewritten